Sunday, September 13, 2009

H is for...Hampstead Heath

London, U.K.

I'm going to bend my own rules here a bit and wander into the territory of burroughs. Technically, Hampstead Heath is a parkland located within the boundaries of London, U.K. My other options for 'H' were Huntsville, Ont. (my whole post would've just revolved around visits to their frozen yogurt spot, Yog's) or Hamilton, Ont. (my whole post would've just revolved around driving through Hamilton to get somewhere else).

This post, I will tell you, is also inspired by a film I saw at the Toronto International Film Festival this week. "Bright Star" is the latest from Jane Campion and tells the love story of Fanny Brawne and famed poet John Keats. Keats and Brawne both lived in Hampstead and watching the movie (a must-see, by the way) this weekend reminded me of my visit there nearly two centuries later.

On the day I visited Hampstead Heath, my friend and I had planned to go see Stonehenge. We both had the day off and made the decision morning-of but hadn't bothered to check the train schedule. We arrived at Victoria Station only to find out that a 3 p.m. departure meant we would miss the opening hours and therefore miss seeing the Wonder of the World.

We took the tube, instead, to Hampstead Heath and almost immediately I felt lucky we had missed our train. (And yes, I am just saying this because I never made it to Stonehenge and therefore can't compare it to a city park.)

The area around Hampstead Heath is known for its insane real estate - absurd even for London. Houses in the area will go for £20 million and has been home to such hot shots as Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor.

The Heath is a gorgeous hilly park that spans nearly 800 acres and seems impossibly green to be so close to one of the world's great cities. The park has three ponds for bathing - one for women, one for men and one for both sexes (scandalous!) Although it was a rare sunny day that summer, I have never felt inclined to swim in water shared with ducks and other fowl.


After reading under the trees for a while, we wandered up to Parliament Hill, famous for its sprawling view of the city. London seemed so flat at times that it was a wonder you could get high enough to have such a lookout (unless you wanted to pay the 15 pounds at Tower Bridge). It seemed like the perfect setting for a romantic comedy flick, you know the ones where the guy sits on a park bench and his pregnant wife lies in his lap while well-dressed children frolic in the background? THIS was it. Kids were running around with kites as dogs chased butterflies and couples canoodled on benches. You could see St. Paul's, the London Eye, and my favourite - the pickle-shaped Gherkin.

Sure, there were no standing stones from 2500 BC but I'll bet you one tube ticket to Zone 2 that Stonehenge couldn't give you view of London like this one.




Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Warning: this post may make you hungry

I spent the last nine days in what is probably my favourite city in Canada (but I won't say for sure because I feel like a traitor): Vancouver. As I stepped off the plane, I thought how fortunate I was that my visit to this wonderful coastal city, known for its vast fresh seafood offerings, coincided with a week-long craving for oysters I couldn't shake.

I had my first tasting of the delicious mollusks a mere two weeks ago at a friend's BBQ, and I couldn't get them out of my mind. Nine days felt like plenty of time to get'r done.
And yet, there I was boarding the plane to YYZ last night - stand-by ticket in hand because I had missed my original flight due to an inability to get my act together - and no oysters in my belly. Shucks. (Get it?!!)

I can hardly say that Vancouver let my grastronomic needs down. (Note: "gastronomic" sounds gross but it's really not). I have been lucky enough to have a few trips out there in the past year and each time I have savoured a wonderful meal that leaves me happy as a clam. Here is my guide:

Chambar
562 Beatty St.
Chambar is a Belgian restaurant. I have no idea what Belgian food is but I know Chambar was delicious. It is, I admit, a much-hyped restaurant in Vancouver - I don't doubt you will find it on many Top 10 lists of places to chow down. But it is worth every bite of the praise it gets. Get any of the three moules frites (mussels) dishes and you will not be let down. Their cocktails are pretty...and pretty tasty.

Noodlebox
1867 W 4th Ave.
This place in Kitsilano rocks because it combines the service of a casual dining experience with food that you would usually pay top dollar for at a house of fine dining. We got the Spicy Peanut Box - put simply, a mix of asian greens, peanut sauce and coconut milk and switched up ribbon noodles for the thick udon ones because everything is better on thick noodles. Who's with me!

Memphis Blues
1342 Commercial Dr.
The t-shirt on the back wall of Memphis Blues says it all - No Vegetarians. A $135 platter on the menu called The Priscilla includes pulled pork, ribs, brisket, BBQ chicken, catfish, oysters and shrimp. A combo plate of ribs and pulled pork was plenty for us, although Priscilla tempted me with her oysters.

Chill Winston
3 Alexander St.
Urban Dictionary says "Chill Winston" can be a phrase used to calm someone down or a term used by stoners to describe the lethargic effects of ample marijuana use. Either way, this patio in Gastown is certainly a relaxing place to spend an evening. It has co-ed bathrooms which automatically makes it cool in a weird way. The dinner menu is split into small, medium and large dishes which I appreciated and the drinks list could keep you on that patio for a while.

Urban Thai
1119 Hamilton St.
This Yaletown gem is the perfect place to go with a group and do a little dish sharing and the lazy susan on the table will make you feel guilty if you don't. To be honest, I don't remember what I or anyone else in my party ordered here but I know I want to go back and that the actual meal was so good that even the leftovers were amazing.